JACKSON HOLE HISTORICAL SOCIETY AND MUSEUM CHRONICLE
Page 5 - Summer 2012
ISSN: 1544-3884
The Elk
For thousands of years, elk herds
migrated through Jackson Hole on their
way to winter ranges in the Red Desert,
Green River drainage, Big Horn Basin
and Teton Valley. As settlements in
these areas expanded in the late 1800s,
the traditional elk feeding grounds
were replaced with cultivated elds and
pastures. Their migration routes were
disrupted by wire fences and wholesale
slaughter from indiscriminant
hunting. Hemmed in on all
sides, the elk gradually ceased
to migrate beyond Jackson
Hole.
Since there were no
permanent settlers in Jackson
Hole until 1883, the elk
accumulated in the natural
meadows along the rivers
and streams north of present
day Jackson and in South
Park where wild hay was in
abundance. When the snow
wasn’t too deep, natural food
supported the herds that ranged in size
from 15,000-50,000 animals between
1887 and 1911. But, even in below
average snow years, many elk died during
the winter, especially older animals and
calves. In harsh winters, elk died in huge
numbers. Following several mild winters,
the herd reached an estimated 50,000
animals before the harsh winter of 1889-
1890. That winter, it was reported that
as many as 20,000 elk died.
After three hard winters between 1909
and 1911 there were less than 10,000
elk left in Jackson Hole. The winter of
1909 was particularly devastating. It
began with heavy snow that drove more
than the usual number of elk out of the
high country. The herd was estimated
to be about 20,000. Wet snow turned to
rain which then froze making it nearly
impossible for the elk to reach food. The
elk invaded ranches, haystacks and the
not yet incorporated town of Jackson.
They roamed through the streets and
residents’ yards. They died everywhere.
One resident noted in the spring of 1909
that it was possible to walk at least two
miles stepping on elk carcasses without
ever putting a foot on the ground.
Local Jackson Hole settlers witnessing
the carnage in 1909 collected $600
($15,000 in today’s dollars) to buy hay.
It was the rst community effort to feed
the elk and ultimately led to the creation
of the National Elk Refuge.
Stephen Nelson Leek
“Father of the Elk”
Although it was D.C. Nowlin,
Wyoming’s second appointed game
warden, who rst suggested a permanent
Elk Refuge in 1906, the efforts of S.N.
Leek are widely credited with the actual
establishment of the Elk Refuge in
1912.
Stephen Leek was born in 1858
in Ontario, Canada. He arrived in
Jackson in 1885 and joined about 40
other pioneers who were already in the
Jackson Hole area at the time. Leek set
up a homestead in South Park in 1891
and married “Etta” Wilson, daughter
of Wilson founder “Uncle Nick” Wilson.
Leek was a friend of “Beaver Dick”
Leigh, and he became a hunting guide
through that relationship. One of Leek’s
clients was George Eastman, founder of
Eastman Kodak, who gave Leek a Kodak
view camera during one of Eastman’s
many hunting trips in the valley.
Leek took extensive glass-plate photos
of starving and dead elk primarily in the
South Park area. He incorporated these
images into articles which he submitted
to newspapers and magazines to publicize
the plight of the valley’s elk. He also
embarked on a lecture series around the
country to personally emphasize the need
for action. He was billed “The Father
of the Elk” on the Orpheum
Circuit, a chain of vaudeville and
movie theaters where he lectured.
Leek was also a Wyoming State
Representative in 1909 which
provided an additional platform
to bring attention to the elk
situation.
Leek’s writings, photographs
and lectures depicting the demise
of Jackson Hole elk attracted
state and national sympathy and
resulted in support from the State
of Wyoming, the U.S. Congress
and other conservation groups
to feed the elk and establish the
National Elk Refuge.
Organized Feeding, Government
Aid and Involvement
Beginning with the rst $600 donated
for hay to feed the elk, ve districts
were established in Jackson Hole with a
responsible rancher in charge of each to
feed the elk. The settlers also petitioned
the State of Wyoming for additional
funds which were granted in 1910 in the
amount of $5,000. In the meantime, D.C.
Nowlin, game warden, bought about 400
tons of hay that were distributed to the
ve districts stretching 10 miles north of
Jackson and 10 miles south.
The next two winters were also severe.
Settlers recounted that one night in
March of 1910 there was about 18 inches
of snow on the ground in the evening and
by morning the snow was six feet deep.
While feeding continued, the available
hay was insufcient for the size of the
herd.
On February 17, 1911, the Wyoming
Legislature passed a Memorial requesting
the U.S. Congress to cooperate with the
State in preserving the elk. On March
4, 1911 Congress appropriated $20,000
“to be made available immediately
for feeding and protecting the elk in
Jackson Hole”. U.S. Biological Survey
biologist E.A. Preble, working with D. C.
Nowlin, recommended that a refuge be
established.
On August 10, 1912, Congress
appropriated $45,000 and decreed the
creation of a National Elk Refuge. The
Government incorporated 1,000 acres of
public land and 1,760 acres of purchased
land along Flat Creek to constitute the
Refuge. D.C. Nowlin became the rst
Refuge Manager.
Ultimately, 34 private homesteads
were acquired, including the property
of John Holland and John Carnes
who were the rst homesteaders in the
valley in 1884. Robert Miller, the third
homesteader in the valley and founder
of Jackson State Bank, sold his 160
acres to the Refuge in 1914. The Miller
House, which still sits on the Refuge and
is open to the public, became the Refuge
headquarters.
In 1925, the Izaak Walton League
of America purchased 1,760 acres of
private land for $36,000. This addition
was accepted by Congress as part of the
Refuge in 1927. An Act of Congress in
1935 provided six million dollars (the
equivalent of over 80 million in today’s
dollars) for the acquisition of land for
wildlife throughout the U.S. A portion
of these funds were used to acquire an
additional 14,000 acres, and negotiations
began to acquire just over 3,000 acres
from J.D. Rockefeller’s Snake River Land
Company. Roosevelt’s Executive Orders
in 1936 and 1937 added 3,165 acres and
618 acres of public land respectively to
the Refuge. These acquisitions brought
the total Refuge to its current size of
about 25,000 acres.
Leek, Stephen. The Elk of Jackson’s
Hole. Their History, Home and Habits.
c. 1914.
National Elk Refuge Celebrating a Century 1912-2012
by Steve Morriss
Stephen N. Leek feeding the elk.
S.N. Leek Collection, American Heritage Center
Starvation among elk herd around 1910.
S.N. Leek Collection, American Heritage Center