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Patternmaking

ATTERNMAKING is the design of a template for an article of clothing. Patternmakers have

a unique language for the techniques and tools they use, including flat pattern,

draping, trueing, toile, and French curve.

Fashion designers use all these

techniques and tools to create patterns.

Patternmaking is a skill that takes

practice. The more you “play” with

patternmaking techniques (making

adjustments, correctly using the

appropriate tools, and drafting a basic

template), the more rewarding

patternmaking becomes. An ability to

create customized patterns will take your

sewing to a new level.

Objective:

þ Identify patternmaking tools and techniques.

Key Terms:

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Paper patterns.

awl

blending

block pattern

computer aided design

(CAD) software

craft paper

cutting mat

dart

draping

dress form

ease

facing

flat pattern

French curve

grading

hem gauge

hip curve

lining

measuring tools

muslin

notcher

pattern

pattern drafting

pattern markings

pattern weights

patternmaker

patternmaking

proportion

prototype

ratio

rotary cutter

sewing gauge

slashing

sloper

tailor’s chalk

tailor’s square

toile

tracing wheel

trueing

vary form curve

Patternmaking Tools and Techniques

PATTERNMAKING TOOLS

A pattern is a template used to create an article or articles of clothing. Patternmaking is

the design of a template for an article of clothing. A patternmaker designs or creates the pat

tern templates for different clothing designs. These patterns are laid out onto fabric. The fabric

is then marked and cut to the specifications of the pattern. Finally, the fabric is sewn to resem

ble the original clothing design. Several alterations and adjustments can be made during the

sewing of a pattern.

Approaches

There are two basic approaches

to making clothing patterns: flat

pattern and draping.

Flat Pattern

Flat pattern is a pattern cre-

ated by cutting fabric on a flat sur-

face in two dimensions (length

and width); most lines are at right

angles.

Draping

Draping is working with fab-

ric on a stand or on a manikin to

find out what the fabric wants “to

do.” You create a rough shape on

the mannequin and mark, notch,

and make notes about each ele

ment (e.g., sleeve, bodice, skirt,

cuff, etc.). Then, the pattern is

traced onto flat fabric uses differ

ent techniques when creating a

pattern template.

Sketching

A patternmaking drawing can

be a 2-dimensional sketch that

illustrates the length and width of

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FIGURE 1. This patternmaker has several muslin patterns from which she

produces garments.

FIGURE 2. This fashion designer is draping a skirt-muslin on a dress form.

a design pattern. A 3-dimensional sketch illustrates, length, width, and depth. This dimen

sional sketch adds volume to the length and width measurements and is accomplished by add

ing curves or darts to more realistically depict the finished garment. A 4-dimensional model is

a prototype that involves draping fabric onto a dress form or a person. While you are creating

the illusion of length, width, and height, you are also able to add space or gravity—that 4th

dimension—to see how a pattern will “wear or hang” on a person.

Measuring Tools

Measuring tools are instruments used to calculate size or shape to create an accurate pat

tern. They can be in the form of metric units, (e.g., meters and centimeters) or as imperial

units of the legacy system (e.g., yards, feet, and inches). These tools are used to collect mea

surements from a person, form, or model. They are also useful in drafting patterns. Pattern

drafting is the process of producing a pattern by collecting and using specific measurements

from a person, a form, or a model. Measuring tools are essential to ensure a correct fit for an

article of clothing. Drafting tools are essential for creating sketches and pattern templates to

ensure a proper fit. Some necessary drafting tools used to sketch or to create a pattern template

include:

Rulers

A clear 18" plastic ruler is used by a patternmaker to create clear and concise markings, such

as legs of darts and seam allowances. A tape measure allows you to precisely measure around

curves or corners. A yardstick is used to measure fabric, hem lengths, and to check the grain

line. A tailor’s square is a two-armed ruler, shaped like an L used to draft or scale down an

existing pattern. It is often referred to as an L-square in which the long arm measures 24

inches and the short arm measures 14 inches.

Curves: A French curve is a measurement tool that creates necklines, armholes, and

other curved lines. A hip curve is a measurement tool that creates long, slightly curved,

measurements for hips, thighs, and lapels; inch measurements are on one side and centi

meters on the other. A vary form curve is a scale (ruler) that bends to shape a variety of

pattern template items: armholes, necklines, and side seam curves.

Gauges: A hem gauge is a ruler used to measure hemline folds to allow hemming on

the grain line. A sewing gauge is a 6-inch ruler with a movable marker used to measure

short lengths, such as the width of a seam allowance.

Marking Tools

The most common marking tools are an awl, a notcher, a tracing wheel, and tailor’s chalk.

Awl

An awl is a pointed tool used to pierce small holes in pattern pieces. Awl markings can indi

cate pocket placement, trim lines, buttonholes, or the end of darts. You can also use an awl for

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piercing through and stitching two or more layers of thick fabric in place, such as leather (a

task for which a machine may have trouble).

Notcher

A notcher is an essential pattern tool that creates pattern markings on fabric, such as darts,

seam allowances, centerlines, and ease lines. You can also use it to help identify front pattern

pieces from back pattern pieces.

Tracing Wheel

A tracing wheel is a tool with a blunt saw-tooth or a smooth edge wheel, used to transfer

markings from patterns onto fabric. For the markings to transfer, you must use a special car

bon transfer paper. A tracing wheel is used to mark pleats, darts, buttonholes, pockets, or

appliqués. It is also useful for retracing patterns or transferring markings from draped muslin

onto paper.

Chalk

Tailor’s chalk is hard chalk or soapstone used to apply markings, such as seams, style

lines, and darts, onto fabric or pattern pieces.

Drawing Tools

An assortment of pencils and pens are essential for drafting patterns onto the paper or trans-

ferring markings from fabric onto paper and vice versa. They are also used for sketching, draw-

ing, and marking various pattern pieces and labeling pattern parts. An eraser is essential for

removing unwanted markings on a pattern template. Craft paper is a strong, durable brown

paper preferred by most designers for drafting and sketching patterns and templates. Designers

may also use this paper because it doesn’t tear as easily as other forms of paper, which is an

advantage when draping pattern templates on a dress form. CAD software is computer soft

ware that creates precision drawings or technical illustrations in 2D or 3D models. CAD soft

ware that can be used for patternmaking and drafting include Adobe Photoshop, Illustrator,

and Creative Cloud.

Cutting Tools

Scissors are essential to cut patterns, paper, and/or fabric. A rotary cutter is ideal for cutting

through multiple layers of fabric. A cutting mat should be used when cutting fabric.

Scissors/Shears

There are several types of scissors and each has a specific purpose: applique, buttonhole,

crafting, embroidery, pinking, tailors, etc. Scissors intended for use on fabrics are never used to

cut paper. Cutting paper dulls the blade making it difficult to cleanly cut fabric. Shears (basi

cally, scissors with longer blades) may be used, also.

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Rotary Cutter

A rotary cutter is a hand-operated tool with a handle attached to a circular blade that cuts

through multiple layers of fabric and a pattern without lifting. A shear or scissor can shift layers

when it slides under them. Rotary cutters require the use of a mat to protect the cutting table

and the blade.

Cutting Mat

A cutting mat is a protective work surface that saves your tables and counters from dam

age and increases the life of blades, especially rotary cutter blades. Most are printed with a

right-angle grid and show a 45° diagonal line for bias cutting. They come in a variety of sizes.

Miscellaneous Tools

Pattern weights are weights that

are used to hold down pattern paper

(craft paper) so that the paper stays

flat and in place. They weigh about

three pounds and prevent the paper

from moving when marking and trac-

ing. Scotch tape is useful for mending

errors in the drafting paper or to join

two pieces of paper together to extend

(alter) the pattern. It can also be use-

ful when using the slashing tech-

nique. A stapler can help to make

darts and prevent pattern pieces from

slipping when marking or cutting. A

staple remover eliminates the staples

from fabric or paper during the mark

ing or cutting. Straight pins fasten pat

tern templates onto fabric. Push pins

can secure pattern pieces and help

transfer markings from muslin pat

terns onto paper.

PATTERNMAKING TECHNIQUES

A prototype is a sample or model that is produced from a concept, idea, or draft. A

patternmaker must be able to produce a prototype in order to present the design to the client.

Mathematics skills are necessary to create a pattern and to fit a garment. Reading a ruler or tape

measure is essential to accurate patternmaking tasks.

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FIGURE 3. Can you identify these patternmaking tools?

Measurements

Accurate body measurements are essential to creating flat patterns and customized fitted

patterns. Several measurements are taken and it is best to have someone other than the client

take the body measurements. Height, bust, waist, hips, inseam, and arm are the most common

measurements but there are more. In order to fit a person for a pattern, you need a blueprint of

the person being fitted. This includes several circumference measurements as well as vertical

and horizontal measurements of the front and back of the person.

Ratio

Ratio is a numerical comparison that indicates the relative sizes of two or more quantities.

The numbers can be any quantity: length, width, height, etc. In the clothing industry, a physi

cal standard was adopted that embodies the idea of proportion. Using the standards for a “reg

ular” body (versus a long or a short body) assumed to be upright: the ratio of the waist to the

seat is 34 to 40 (or 34:40) and the ratio of height to waist is 68 to 34 (or 68:34). Regular length

measurements for a woman are:

Height = 5 feet, 8 inches

Nape to waist = 17 inches

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FURTHER EXPLORATION…

ONLINE CONNECTION:

Start Making Patterns with the Right Drafting Tools

How do you begin making your own pat

terns? How do you learn to draft pattern

pieces using the correct tools and equip

ment? Patternmakers alter and adjust com

mercial or custom patterns to create a per

fect fit.

Visit the Clothing Patterns 101 website at

https://www.clothingpatterns101.com/

drafting-tools.html for more information.

Learn more about selecting the best paper,

pencils, and tape for patternmaking. Explore

the best scissors and shears for each

patternmaking, draping, sewing, fitting, and

finishing job. Review the rulers and curves and why accurate measuring and smooth lines are

crucial to patternmaking. Read more about muslin and how it is used to create custom fit pat-

terns and garments. Explore the plethora of marking tools and the wealth of specialty tools and

supplies to make/draft a pattern. Then, review the steps to taking accurate body measurements.

This patternmaker is marking pattern pieces.

In sleeve = 18 inches

In leg = 32 inches

A regular girth measurement for a woman’s bust is 38 inches. Waist =34 inches and seat =

40 inches.

Proportion

Proportion is the relative size and scale of a design or pattern element, in relationship to

other parts of the whole design or garment. The human body is the most universal standard of

measurement. For example, an excessively large textile pattern can overwhelm the form of a

garment or a decorative interior piece (pillow, wall covering, window covering).

Patternmaking Skills

To create a pattern template and/or a prototype, you may create a sloper or block pattern

and then apply the skills of blending and trueing.

Sloper

A sloper is a basic paper gar-

ment pattern that is created for

specific body measurements and

does not include seam allowances,

wearing ease, or any other design

elements. It is a tool used as the

first step toward making a block

pattern. There are six basic slop-

ers: front bodice, back bodice,

front skirt, back skirt, sleeve, and

pant.

Block Pattern

A block pattern is multiple

silhouettes of basic, custom fitted

patterns (slopers) from which

other patterns, sizes, and styles

can be created and mass pro

duced. Block patterns are used in

an industrial production setting.

When creating blocks and slopers,

it is important to “blend” and

“true” a pattern.

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FIGURE 4. Basic sloper templates.

Blending

Blending is the process of

smoothing and shaping angular

and curved lines of a pattern

ensuring all pattern elements

“come together” and are clean.

Truing

Trueing is ensuring all the

corner points of the pattern come

to a 90° angle and that the seam

lengths are even. Trueing also

ensures that any darts, pleats, etc.

come together to give a finished

and even look. Blending and trueing help ensure the pattern is neat and that no inconsistencies

are visible when sewing. Copying the original block or sloper pattern onto paper, when creat

ing a new pattern, ensures the original pattern stays intact.

Construction Skills

You must know how to manipulate darts, add or reduce fullness to a garment, change the

size of a finished pattern, allow for wearing ease, and create new patterns from existing patterns

or garments.

Dart

A dart is a fold or a tuck that

comes to a point and gives a gar-

ment shape and better custom fit.

You must manipulate darts to give

a pattern or template a proper fit

for the client. The process

includes taking a basic sloper and

adjusting the beginning and end

point of the original dart to create

a more flattering fit for the client.

Standard darts are shown on the

sides of the pattern, however, they

can be placed virtually anywhere

on the pattern to ensure that the

fabric fits the natural curves of the

body. Darts can also be used to

add other features such as gathers

and pleats.

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FIGURE 5. A patternmaker is shown blending and trueing a pattern.

FIGURE 6. Darts are marked in the armholes and the bodice of this pattern

piece.

Slashing

Slashing is a cutting technique used to add or to reduce fullness. Slashing and spreading a

pattern adds width or length to a pattern. Slash and closing is a technique to reduce fullness.

Spreading the slash cuts creates an open or fuller pattern such as that of an A-line skirt or dress.

Slashing is used to create ruffles, flounces, or pleats for a pattern. If a patternmaker is looking

to close a slash to reduce fullness, it can be done by closing darts.

Grading

Grading is the process of changing the size of a finished pattern. The purpose of grading a

pattern is to provide multiple body types and sizes at the same proportion, fit, and shape of the

original flat pattern. Slashing and pattern shifting are the most common ways to grade an origi

nal pattern. Slashing, or cutting and spreading the pattern, is more accurate than pattern shift

ing. Shifting is the process of moving the original pattern horizontally and vertically along a

central axis to change the pattern size.

Ease

Ease is the minimum amount of space that a garment needs to allow for comfortable body

movement. Body measurements and garment measurements will differ to allow for wearing

ease. A positive ease is used for loose fitting garment designs, while a negative ease is used for

form-fitting designs. When designing patterns, it is important to include ease, whether positive

or negative.

Existing Garments

New patterns are often created from an existing pattern or from garments. To do so, the

garment seams are opened and each piece is marked with construction details that need to be

considered when creating the new pattern templates.

A facing is a piece of fabric turned to the inside of a garment that is used to finish the

raw edges of the fabric. A facing hides construction details, supports the shape of the gar

ment, and gives a garment a clean and polished look. Facings are mostly used to finish

edges in necklines, armholes, hems, and any other garment opening.

A lining is a layer of fabric that is stitched separately and then attached to theinside of a

garment. Its purpose is to hide inner construction details and add shape and support to a

garment. It also creates opacity and makes the garment more comfortable to wear.

Pattern Markings

Pattern markings are symbols on individual pattern pieces, that indicate how the pattern

pieces should be sewn. Pattern markings fall into three general categories: fit adjustments, cut

ting guides, and construction. Grain line, fold line, and notches are basic pattern markings on

all commercial patterns. Layout and cutting guides as well as construction markings are essen

tial during the sewing process.

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Fit Adjustments

A double line that is parallel to the grain line and is used to add or to take away length:

lengthen or shorten here. Other fit adjustments include size selection lines (pattern tissue

often has multiple size lines imprinted) and circumference measurements (e.g., a circle with

crossed lines indicates where a pattern has been designed to land on specific body

measurements).

Cutting Guides

The phrase “cut on fold” is common on patterns: center back fold or facing fold. Grain lines

are marked on all pattern pieces to indicate how the pattern piece is to be laid out on uncut

fabric, in relation to the selvedges. Grain lines are usually placed parallel to the selvedge edge of

the fabric.

Construction

Pattern markings for construction indicate how the pattern pieces are sewn together. They

can show how to distribute ease, create darts, and where to gather. Crucial construction marks

include: notches (triangular marks), dots, squares, and large triangles, darts (series of dots that

create a triangle), tucks, pleats, buttons, closures, appliques, stitching lines, waistline markings,

and pocket placements.

Helpful Markings

A pattern usually has markings that indicate the style number of the pattern and the pattern

size. Individual pattern pieces have their name written on them, along with view letters. Pat-

terns also have lining and interfacing information.

Fitting and Finishing

Patternmakers make a test garment of muslin (a toile) to ensure proper fit and design before

cutting into the actual garment fabric. A dress form is utilized to design, drape, and fit gar

ments.

Muslin

Muslin is unbleached woven cotton fabric that is inexpensive, plain, lightweight, and ideal

for draping. It is better to use muslin than paper, because muslin is easier to alter and it is easier

to create folds, tucks, and lines.

Process: Patternmakers mark, pin, cut, and even sew the muslin fabric at this point in the

fitting process. When the muslin pattern is perfected, it is unpinned and carefully marked

and laid out onto paper. Then, the paper pattern pieces are laid out on and cut from

selected (often more expensive) fabric.

Toile: A toile is a garment made from inexpensive fabric to test a pattern before the

actual fabric is used. Because a toile is commonly made from muslin, it has become com

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mon practice for patternmakers to refer to a toile as a muslin.” A toile is created to ensure

the fit of a pattern before cutting more expensive fabric, such as silk or linen. Alterations

are often made in the pattern pieces before cutting the expensive fabric.

Dress Form

A dress form is a three-dimensional

model of the human body used to design,

drape, alter, and fit garments or patterns.

Dress forms are usually a torso constructed of

a hard interior and a fabric or foam exterior

(useful for pinning). Some forms are made to

a client’s measurements, while others are

adjustable. Dress forms are not mannequins.

Mannequins have a hard outer shell and rep

resent the entire body. Dress forms come in a

variety of styles including torso, display, pro

fessional, bifurcated (that include legs), and

adjustable. Dress forms are available in male,

female, child, and infant models.

Summary:

A pattern is a template used to cre

ate an article of clothing. Although

commercial patterns are available

in multiple sizes and styles, they can be misleading and expensive. You must prac

tice the skill of patternmaking. Sketching, making a flat pattern, altering a commer

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FURTHER EXPLORATION…

ONLINE CONNECTION:

Pattern Drafting

Threads website senior technical editor, Judith

Neukam, demonstrates “A Fast Look at Pattern

Drafting,” http://www.threadsmagazine.com/

2013/02/05/video-a-fast-look-at-pattern-drafting.

“Sewing 101: Pattern Drafting,” at

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=

8ebD9BxWHpQ, demonstrates how easy it is to

take an existing garment and make a pattern

template.

Drawing, measuring, marking, and cutting tools are

essential for creating sketches and pattern templates.

FIGURE 7. Which of these two images is a dress form and

which image is a mannequin? What is the difference between

a dress form and a mannequin?

cial pattern, and draping a dress form are skills you should develop as a

patternmaker. If you master the skill of creating slopers, then you can make custom

templates. Those templates can be rendered into several sizes and styles that are tai

lored to your measurements (or your client’s measurements). Nothing fits better

than a pattern that is custom designed for the person wearing it. When you learn to

create custom patterns, you gain a new perspective to your sewing.

Checking Your Knowledge:

´ 1. List and describe three measuring tools for drafting a pattern.

2. Differentiate between a sloper pattern and a block pattern.

3. Describe the importance of trueing and blending a pattern.

4. Describe the slashing technique when adding or reducing fullness to a pattern.

5. What is the purpose of creating a toile?

6. What makes common marking symbols important to patternmaking?

Expanding Your Knowledge:

What is a pattern card? What information is included on the card? What is the

importance of a pattern card? How would you organize pattern cards? Visit the Isn’t

That Sew website at http://isntthatsew.org/pattern-card/ to learn more.

Web Links:

: A Self-Sewn Wardrobe

http://fairfitstudio.com/blog/patternmaking-101-how-do-i-start-making-my-

own-patterns

A 3-D Plush Pattern from a 2-D Drawing

http://laurenvenell.com/epic-how-to-make-a-3-d-plush-pattern-from-a-2-d-

drawing/

Patternmaking Methods

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2014/03/garments-pattern-making-

methods.html

Free Sewing Patterns

http://isntthatsew.org/free-sewing-patterns/

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