PRODUCT DATA SHEET
Edition 01/2020
Version 001
30000260
TABLE TOP EPOXY
PACKAGING
Size/Finish Item Number
Table Top Epoxy — 1 Gal Kit 40005641
CLEAN UP
Wash hands with soap and warm water. Clean tools using a solvent such as
acetone, nail polish remover or denatured alcohol. Follow solvent manufactures
SDS while using.
SHELF LIFE AND STORAGE
Shelf life is 12 months when stored in factory-sealed containers indoors at 60°F to
80°F (15°C to 27°C) for Base and Activator. Keep containers tightly sealed.
DO NOT FREEZE. Keep away from sparks or flames.
Do not place containers against an exterior wall or on the floor.
If resin component thickens or crystallizes, it may be reconditioned by placing the
container in a bath of warm water (approximately 150°F) and slowly stirring until
product liquefies.
LIMITATIONS
Do not use in low-temps
Do not use over oil-based products.
Do not apply over 1/8” thick.
Do not use in high humidity conditions.
Do not use material that has crystallized.
SIMIRON | TABLE TOP EPOXY PAGE 2 OF 3
INSTALLATION
Simiron recommends that all application instructions be followed to ensure satisfactory results.
Product must be between 75 – 80°F before use. Product container may be placed in warm water until proper temperature is achieved.
Environment must be between 75 – 80°F during application and curing process. Environment should also be free of dust and other airborne contaminates.
Before starting a project, care should be taken to ensure that enough SIMIRON Table Top Epoxy is available to complete the project. A shortage of material may result in
undesired results.
SEAL COAT:
It is best to determine if your surface needs a seal coat before starting your project.
Seal coats are important because porous or rough surfaces may lead to excessive air
bubbles. Seal coating the surface will help prevent air bubbles from attaching to the
surface.
SIMIRON Table Top Epoxy may be used as the seal coat. Porous or unsealed wood such
as tabletops, bars, hardwood, barnwood, knotty wood or other types of wood should
be sealed before applying flood coat. Well-seasoned or dry wood such as barnwood or
kiln dried wood may require multiple seal coats. When pouring over aluminum, copper,
stainless steel, plastic laminate (like Formica®), or other non-porous surfaces a seal
coat is not needed. Be sure that these surfaces are clean and free of contaminates such
as oil or grease.
Allow any stains, varnishes or other coatings to completely dry before applying seal coat
overtop. Do not apply over oil-based finishes.
Delicate objects such as pictures may be damaged by epoxy resin and should be sealed
with an acrylic or polyurethane coating before embedding with epoxy resin.
If a seal coat is needed only mix a small batch of material, as the material will cover a
much larger area. Use a brush to spread a thin coat over the surface. Allow seal coat to
dry a minimum of 4 - 6 hours before applying the flood coat.
FLOOD COAT:
To prevent pooling and an uneven coat of material, ensure that the surface to be
coated is as level as possible. Flood coat should be applied at 1/8” thick or less.
If thicknesses greater than 1/8” are desired, then multiple coats will need to be
applied. Allow flood coat to cure between 4 – 10 hours before applying a second flood
coat.
Apply flood coat by starting on one end and pour the resin the entire length of the
surface. Evenly pour the mixed resin across the surface using a zig-zag pattern.
After all material is poured, do not try to scrape any additional material out of the
container. Material will begin to flow and self-level. If there are areas where thicker
amounts of material may have been poured, you may move it around using a notched
plastic trowel, squeegee or foam brush.
EDGES:
Flood coats may be allowed to run over the edges. Vertical edges will not be as thick as
horizontal surfaces so be sure to use a brush to ensure the coating is evenly applied on
the edge. Drips will form underneath the edge during the leveling and curing process.
Using a flat scraper, excess drips can be removed prior to final curing. Drips that
harden can be removed by sanding once the coating is fully cured.
ADDITIONAL COATS:
Allow flood coat to cure between 4 – 10 hours before applying a second flood coat.
If allowed to cure for longer than 10 hours, it is recommended to lightly sand the
surface using a 220 – 300 grit sandpaper to ensure proper adhesion between layers.
Wipe sanded surface clean with a tack-cloth or solvent such as acetone or denatured
alcohol so that no debris from sanding is entrapped. Follow flood coat application
directions again for each additional coat applied.
REMOVING AIR BUBBLES:
Allow the flood coat to level for 15 minutes after application before starting the air
bubble removal. Air bubbles are created from product mixing, application and surface
tension so it’s perfectly normal to see these, but it is important to remove them. The
best tools for removing air bubbles are a handheld propane torch or heat gun. Hold the
torch or heat gun approximately 6 – 10 inches away from the coating and quickly move
around the surface. You will see the air bubbles pop immediately. Continue doing this
method every 10 – 15 minutes until all bubbles are removed. This may take up to an
hour to remove all entrapped bubbles. Prevent the torch from getting too close to
the coating and do not hold the torch in one area for too long, as scorching can occur.
CURING:
After application of the final coat, the coating should be allowed to properly cure in
a controlled, clean, and dust-free environment free of contaminates at 75 – 80°F for
12 – 14 hours. Allow coating to cure a minimum of 72 hours before returning into full
service. Waiting 72 hours will allow the coating to achieve sufficient hardness and
scratch resistance.
Tack Free: 12 – 14 hours
Full Cure: 72 hours