Relaxer Safety Tips Caution!

RelaxeR StRand teSt

Just before performing a relaxer

service, or on the day you

perform the patch test, take

a few strategic test strands to

ensure the relaxer is the right

strength, the hair remains in

fairly good condition, and the

hair relaxes as expected. This

will save you many unwanted

surprises. (Figures 15-9

and 15-10).

Select a strand at the back, and one on each side of the head. Separate each strand from the rest of the hair, apply

the relaxer as directed, and monitor the relaxation process. Midway through the recommended processing time,

lift each test strand, gently stretch and release the strand, and observe the curl reversion. You can also do this

by using the back of a comb to remove the relaxer and then observe the curl reversion. Is the hair halfway there?

Almost there? After this point, check the test strands at five-minute intervals until the process is complete.

Relaxer Safety Tips

Refer to the following for helpful safety tips for before, during, and after the relaxer service.

Before Relaxer Service

• Use only plastic or glass bowls and plastic clips when relaxing hair. Do not use metal.

• Apply relaxer to hair that has not been shampooed for one week.

• Apply if the client has fragile hair and avoids swimming in the ocean, soaking in chlorinated hot tubs, and

participating in other activities not compatible with fragile hair.

• Decline a relaxer service if the hair has been treated with henna, which interferes with all texture services.

• Decline a relaxer service if the hair has been treated with metallic dyes, which are chemically incompatible

with relaxers.

• Establish a treatment program to restore the hair’s strength and elasticity before scheduling a relaxer service.

Caution!

Sodium hydroxide and thio

relaxers are chemically

incompatible and can

cause severe damage—

even hair loss—when mixed

or overlaid on the hair.

• Neverusesodium

hydroxide relaxers on hair

previously relaxed with a

thio relaxer.

• Neverusethio relaxers

on hair previously

relaxed with a

hydroxiderelaxer.

Fig. 15-9 Sufficiently relaxed strand.

Fig. 15-10 Insufficiently relaxed strand.

During Relaxer Application

• Precisely apply base cream without overlapping on hair that

will be relaxed.

• Wear protective gloves when performing every relaxer service.

• Avoid using two different relaxer types. Do not apply a hydroxide

relaxer to hair that has been relaxed with a thio relaxer and

viceversa.

• Apply a relaxer formulation appropriate for the client’s hair

texture and condition.

• Apply to the midshafts, then the scalp area, then the hairline, and

finallytheendswhenperformingavirginrelaxer.

• Use your gloved fingers to smooth the relaxer through the hair.

Donotusetheteethofacomb.

• Separate the hair in sections using your fingers, the tail of a tail

comb, or an applicator brush without touching the scalp.

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Fig. 15-37 Bricklay wrap.

Bricklay Wrapping pattern

The bricklay wrap is similar to the actual bricklaying technique

(see Chapter 12, Hairstyling, p. 398). Base sections are offset

from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits and blend

the hair’s flow. Different bricklay patterns use different starting

points (front hairline, occipital area, or crown) that affect the

hair’s directional flow. The bricklay wrap can be used with various

combinations of panels, base sections and directions, wrapping

techniques, and perm rod placements (Figure 15-37).

Spiral Wrapping pattern

Spiral perms utilize the spiral wrap technique in

which hair is wrapped in vertical, or near vertical,

sections. This allows the permed hair to naturally fall

in ringlets or corkscrew curls. The wrapping technique

itself produces a uniform curl from scalp to end.

Longer hair (past the shoulder) benefits most from

this effect (Figure 15-38).

DouBle-roD Wrapping pattern

For extra-long hair, you may need to use a double-rod

wrap, also known as piggyback wrap, in which the hair

is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down

the hair shaft (Figure 15-39), and another rod is used

to wrap the remaining hair in the same direction. This

allows for more even curl from scalp to end and better

processing solution penetration.

Fig. 15-38 Spiral perm wrap.

Fig. 15-36 Basic wrap.

Wrapping Patterns

There are four common patterns of wrapping the rods: basic wrap, bricklay

wrap, spiral perm wrap, and a double-rod (piggyback) wrap.

BaSic Wrapping pattern

The basic wrap, also known as straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern

in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are

positioned on equal-sized bases; all the base sections are horizontal and

are the same length and width as the perm rod. The base control is the

perm rod’s position in relation to its base section, determined by the angle

at which the hair is wrapped (Figure 15-36).

Fig. 15-39 Double-rod (piggyback) wrap.

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wrap can be used with various combinations of panels, base

sections and directions, wrapping techniques, and perm rod

placements. Follow the steps forperforming the permanent

wave using a bricklay wrap in Procedure 15-5.

15-5:

Permanent Wave Using a Bricklay Wrap

See page 589

Perm Using Spiral Wrap

For this perm, wrap in vertical, or near vertical, sections to allow

the permed hair to naturally fall in ringlets with uniform curl from

scalp to end. Follow the steps for performing the permanent

wave using a spiral wrap in Procedure 15-6.

15-6:

Permanent Wave Using a Spiral Wrap

See page 592

Perm Using Double-Rod Wrap

For extra-long hair, wrap on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and then use

another rod to wrap the remaining hair in the same direction to create an even curl from scalp

to end. Follow the steps for performing the permanent wave using the double rod (piggyback)

wrap in Procedure 15-7.

15-7:

Permanent Wave Using a Double-Rod Wrap

See page 595

Soft Curl Perm

For this perm, you will use a thio relaxer to loosen the curly

texture followed by a perm that wraps the relaxed hair in

large perm rods or curlers. Following the service, consider

recommending the use of a processing cap at night for

moisture retention. To avoid compromising the curls, hair

must not be shampooed for at least 48 hours after the

service. Follow the steps for performing the soft curl perm

(chemical curl reforming) in Procedure 15-8.

15-8:

Soft Curl Perm (Chemical Curl

Reformation)

See page 598

Check In

33. Which perm wrap is ideal for clients with extra-long hair?

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